But we are back in the groove again and have lots of things to complete on our Tiki 30.The rudder lashings were not shapedjust right and needed some reworking of the aft edge of the stern pos and fwd edge of the rudder.Then a layer of six oz cloth to seal every thing up tight and some new paint.
The photo below shows 1/2 of a pvc tube glassed onto the bottom of the cockpit as a conduit for the battery cables and fuel hose. We originaly installed this tube in the cockpit, butit turned out to be a toe stubber and prevented water from draining out of the strbd side of the cockpit. Seems obvious in retrospect.
This tube is to provide a condyuit for the wiring tha passes between the strbd hull and the port hull. It wasn't something we thought about until it was time to actually run that wiring and realized that there really wasn't any appropriate location where the wiring would be out of the way and secure.
We also moved the spinnaker halyard inside the mast. It seemed a shame to have the aerodynamicaly clean wingsail rig and then have both parts of the spinnaker halyard just dragging in the breeze. This will get one part in the mast and also position it properly to use one of the halyard stoppers at the base of the mast.
One of the first comments on the boat at Mystic was that our outboard portlights were too small.This thought was expressed by many others who have seen the boat in person and online.I really didn't get it until I saw the boat from a distance, and then had to agree.
Here we have removed the port light
Below you can see the new window frame on the port house side.
Once the shape was finalized we cut out the lexan and rabbeted it into the back side of the frame. Due to the high expansion factor of the lexan, we attached the lexan to the plywood frame with 3M 5200.
Here we have glued the frame with the lexan to the house side, also with 5200. The little wooden blocks are attached to the boat with super glue and then small wedges push the frame against the house side. Once the 5200 sets up (a couple of days) we will fillet in the frames and add a layer of fabric to seal it off. Then some fairing and we will repaint the house sides.
We used 12 mm Dyneex for the headstay bridle. Also visible here is the lower end of the jib on the Harken roller furling unit.
When we first went to hoist the mainsail, it was a no go. We followed the plan and used a double block for the upper end of the halyards, being careful to run them in opposing directions. What happened was that the block layed over on its side and the throat halyard wore a groove in the block cheek and jammed up tight. Perhaps if you pulled upboth halyard sat exactly the right time it might work. But we changed the double block out for two singles and the gaff and mainsail went up as smooth as silk.
We are now preparing to take this boat to the St. Petersburg, FL "Strictly Sail" boatshow in early December. We are having a custom rigid tube bimini fabricated By High Seas Fabrication in Stuart FL. They are a custom shop that does great work. They are building the top and will install it next week when we launch. We are also having trampolines made for the aft end of the boat on either side of the boarding ladder. The tramps are being made by John MacNally of Gulfstram Sailmakers of Jupiter FL. We are closing in.